Roman Aqueducts, Dams and Baths: Merida to Aljucen

 "Slow travel allows you to witness the small, quiet moments
that make up the vastness of the world."

Via de la Plata Stage 10

As with so many stages on the Via de la Plata, deciding where to head next out of Mérida was tougher than it seemed. We had a choice: a very short 11 km jaunt to Aljucén or a long push of 36 km to Alcuescar. But in the spirit of Roman exploration, and with a touch of curiosity about what life might have been like in their ancient bathhouses, we chose the shorter though potentially more interesting stage.   Deciding that if you are going to walk through history, you might as well visit the Roman Baths and soak it in too!

As such, with a short stage in front of us, we took things slowly, heading down to breakfast at the hotel around 8:00 AM.  When we went to check out, we got a bit of a nasty surprise, discovering that the cost of our second night was about twice what we expected.  Simply put, it was not the price as listed when we reserved, but ultimately, there was nothing we could do about it, as the hotel clerk simply acted confused and insisted that he could not change the total despite what the computer said.

Frustratingly, after 20 days of walking, we really needed a rest day regardless of this problem.  However, our mood wasn't much improved when we visited an ATM on the edge of town and discovered that the Canadian dollar had apparently decreased even more in value relative to the Euro since we left home. We realize these financial troubles reflect the state of the world at the moment, and it is a great privilege to be walking the Camino at a time when things feel this dark, but nevertheless, we couldn't help feeling rather depressed by it all.

Via de la Plata and the Camino Mozarabe

A little disillusioned, we set off from Mérida, retracing our steps through the city to reconnect with the Camino. Along the way, we spotted signs marking the Camino Mozárabe, a route that joins the Via de la Plata here. Though the trail is often celebrated for its Roman heritage, it also carries a rich Islamic-era history.

Under Moorish rule, Spanish Christians, known as Mozarabs, were granted the right to journey to Santiago. The Via de la Plata became one of their pilgrimage routes, and today many of the waymarkers reflect this history, with inscriptions in both Spanish and Arabic.

Interestingly, while we had already walked from Seville to Mérida, the guidebook notes that this stage is technically the first official stage of the Via de la Plata, historically speaking.

Following the Camino markers, we made our way down to the river and onto the shaded walkway that runs along the water. Storm clouds loomed on the horizon, with distant thunder rolling across the countryside, yet for the moment, the sun broke through, casting playful shadows through the tunnel of trees that sheltered the promenade. It was quiet here, peaceful, a welcome contrast to the bustle of Mérida behind us.

Bird watching in the City

Soon we found ourselves crossing a small bridge onto a grassy island, stopping to admire the reflections of the trees and bridges in the waterways on either side of us.   The air above the waterway was full of birds, a group of Alpine Swifts among the most exciting for us. 

\In the park, we were delighted to find yet another sign with information on local birds.  Just across the river, a mixed colony of Glossy Ibis and Great Egrets was noisily nesting in the trees, and we could hear the cheerful sounds of other birds in the landscaped park around us.  

As we walked through the grassy, treed park, we spotted Serin, European Greenfinches, Eurasian Magpies, and Eurasian Jackdaws.  On the quiet waterways outside the stone walls of the pilgrim albergue, we spotted Greylag Geese and Muscovy Ducks paddling quietly along.  Seeing so much bird life in the heart of a city always makes us feel a little more at home.

Roman Aqueduct

Eventually, we had to leave the river way, making our way up to a roundabout and then following a sidewalk down a busy road.  Almost immediately, we found the street blocked by construction fences.  We were just beginning to look for a detour when two local dog-walkers came down the closed street and casually moved aside the temporary construction fencing to exit the area.  We quickly followed their example and were on our way again, feeling a little like miscreants for breaking through the barrier.

A few hundred meters later, we came to the low-lying Roman bridge of Albarregas, across from which lay Merida’s aqueduct, officially known as the Acueducto de Los Milagros, which, translated, means the Aqueduct of Miracles.  A name given to it for surviving and standing for so many centuries.

The Acuducto de Los Milagros is one of the city’s most striking reminders of Roman engineering, which once carried water from a distant spring and a nearby Roman reservoir into the heart of the city. 

Originally having carried water 10-11 km across the countryside to Merida, today it is this structure's soaring arches and towering stone support pillars, which have been weathered and pockmarked by millennia, that convey the industriousness and might of the Roman Empire.  

Seeing the aqueduct is stunning; to walk along its base is humbling.  It is very much a timeless scene that countless people must have taken in and experienced.  For those of us on the Via de la Plata who have the opportunity to see such wonders, it feels as if the weight of history is on full display here, creating a connection to the Romans who once lived, worked, and thrived in this very place. 

Connections

I am no expert, but the construction of this aqueduct looked very different from the one we saw in Segovia while walking the Camino de Madrid, and also different from the one in Tomar, which we walked to the top of while doing the Camino Portuguese Central.  I'm not sure where the differences lie, but this structure seemed to have fared less well than the other two against the relentless march of time, as it was missing most of its top section.  

Beyond the engineering of this structure was the fact that it was now also home to five or more White Stork nests, making it a bustling center of activity even in its old age.

After stopping to admire and photograph the aqueduct, we continued towards the edge of town, following the sidewalk past apartment complexes and small homes.  Around this point, it began to pour, and we hastily took out our umbrellas.  At one time, I would have said it was ridiculous to hike with umbrellas, but we've used ours for shelter against both hot sun and rain, and with the warm temperatures today, we felt it was far too hot to put on rain gear.

Sidewalks and Cycling Routes

Eventually, the sidewalk gave way, and we found ourselves walking the edge of a rather busy road during morning rush hour, passing multi-use buildings that were either for rent or decorated with the names and logos of businesses that were meaningless to us.  We trudged past in the rain and were grateful when we picked up a green cycling route after the next busy roundabout, which took us off the road.

We followed this cycling route for several kilometres, surrounded by agricultural fields. It crossed over the highway and continued on, taking us past a large treed picnic area and then to a huge sports complex that had tennis courts, a track, and what looked like a country club.  No one was out and about on this rainy Sunday morning, but it looked like quite a prosperous place.

After the sports complex, we lost the cycling track, but we soon caught our first glimpse of a large body of water ahead of us.  We followed a quiet paved road down to a pedestrian walkway that circumnavigated what turned out to be a large reservoir created by a dam built by the Romans.

Roman Dams and Reservoirs 

When we first reached the water, we spotted a group of snowy white Greylag geese paddling enthusiastically along.   A pathetic peeping alerted us to a family of Eurasian Moorhens just offshore.  The tiny, ridiculously fluffy black babies with their brilliant red bills were swimming after the adults for dear life.  The entire family fled to a patch of reeds where the little ones hid among the stalks, pretending not to exist.

For the next few kilometres, we followed a wide crushed stone dust pathway around the edge of the body of water named the Proserpina Reservoir.  We could see the Roman dam, Proserpina, stretching along one end, looking exactly like the sections of Hadrian's Wall National Trail we hiked along in England. As we walked, we came across sections of the dam that had been excavated and had interpretation plaques to explain the process, which was an interesting learning experience.

About halfway around the waterway, we came to a large Roman excavation that showed the beginnings of the aqueduct that took water to Merida.  Again, there were interpretation plaques that explained how the waterworks operated, which were quite fascinating. Seeing how well these structures have held up, we wondered if there was some technology the Romans had that was lost.  Modern dams seem to need constant repairs and dredging. Was it the same with the Roman ones, and if so, how did they accomplish this?

Fishing and Camping

As we circumnavigated the reservoir, we passed a few different cafés, but they were all closed. Outside one a family of Eurasian Coots were bobbing along in the still waters of the lake.  There was a pavilion where you could rent paddle boats, each of which was equipped with its own waterslide, but no one was yet out and about to take advantage of them.  This surprised us a little, as it was Sunday morning, and we assumed this would be a good time to visit the lake.  However, apart from a few fishermen who had set up large tents at their favourite fishing spots, nothing much was going on.

At the far end of the reservoir, we spotted an interesting-looking church with a spiral-shaped concrete steeple sticking up above the trees. 

However, our trail struck off in a different direction, taking us onto what at first looked like a very dodgy, overgrown, grassy track.  It turned out to be a 'shortcut' to a quiet paved road that we would follow for the next few kilometres.

Shifting Landscapes

At this point, we noticed that the landscape had changed.  We were walking through old fields and pastures, but scattered amongst the tall grass were large granite boulders covered in moss and lichen.  It looked a lot like the Canadian Shield, only there were large clumps of purple blooming Spanish lavender sprinkled among the boulders, and the trees were oaks and olives instead of junipers and pines.  

Throughout this stretch of the Via de la Plata, we were especially grateful for the Camino waymarker blocks that have been thoughtfully placed along the trail. They often appear at waterways and weirs, allowing pilgrims to cross without plunging their shoes into cold, rushing water. On more than one occasion, these simple stones saved us from wet socks and blisters.

But the blocks offer more than just practicality.  As we have discovered, they are also perfect little rest stops. We found ourselves pausing on them to catch our breath, take in the surrounding fields, or simply enjoy a quiet moment on the trail.

We traversed this wild-looking landscape for quite some time.  In some areas, there were pastures filled with cows, and for quite a while, we were walking beside a long stone wall that was heavily buttressed.  We were very curious about what it was for, who had built it, and when.  Eventually, we turned off the paved road onto a sandy track.  We were, however, grateful that the thick sticky mud of the fields had been replaced by sand, which did not stick to our shoes.  We did have to watch our footing in order to avoid the plethora of snails and slugs that were making the most of the damp weather.

Cuckoos and Shrikes

As we made our way through the grassy fields and pastures, we spotted two interesting species of birds. The first was a pair of Great Spotted Cuckoos that were foraging among the trees, and frequently paused to sit on the wire fences that defined the pastures. 

They had white undersides, and as their name suggests, their brown backs were indeed covered in white spots!  The other birds that stood out were a pair of Iberian Shrikes, who looked very elegant as they perched atop the fences with their light grey caps and backs, black wings and face masks, and white underbellies.

Rainy Afternoon on Camino

It had rained on and off all afternoon, and it was during a rare dry spell that we came upon a sheep farm, its occupants all clustered around the gate to stare at us. Not long after this, we came to the edge of El Carrascalejo, a tiny village with a huge Camino spirit.  

There were multiple signs for the Via de la Plata at the entrance of town, and we followed the Calle Santiago to a 14th-century church, the Iglesia de la Consolacion.  It was closed, but it looked very beautiful nonetheless, and it did have an active White Stork nest on top.

We walked through town to the albergue, and as the heavens opened up to pour, we stepped inside for a café con leche.  The albergue looked very nice and quiet, and we enjoyed the break, sitting on the covered patio outside and taking our wet shoes off.  The albergue owner was very nice, and we half regretted not stopping there for the night.

Roman Baths in Aljucen

However, we continued on for the final couple of kilometres to Aljucen.  It rained hard for much of the walk, and we were glad to find our accommodations, which we thought might be a unique stay on this Camino.  We were not disappointed.  Tonight we are staying at the Termas Aqua Libra, which has Roman-style baths. 

When we arrived, we were welcomed in by the hostess, whose daughter explained everything to us in English.  The Casa Rural is a reproduction of a Roman villa, complete with kitchens, an internal courtyard, an outdoor courtyard with a pool (resembling a cloister), bedrooms, and a section with the baths.

Perhaps it is a bit touristy, as you can rent Roman clothes, and the menu in the restaurant offers Roman cuisine, but it was really interesting to actually see how a Roman villa would have been laid out and worked, especially after all the ruins we saw in Merida.

We checked in, with the aid of the hostess and her English-fluent daughter, and soon did our laundry and had showers, before setting out to explore the peaceful Roman courtyard. The edges were lined with covered tables and chairs, and at the center was a lush garden brimming with huge blooming plants and a marble swimming pool.  

Roman Bath Experience

At 4:00 PM, we went into the baths for an hour.  There were three pools in the dark, vaulted room, with the recommended order for using them being cold (frigidarium), warm (tepidarium), and then hot (caldarium).  

The room was lit only by candles, and it was very warm and steamy inside, giving it a highly romantic atmosphere. 

We greatly enjoyed the hour we had in the baths, especially soaking in the warmest of the three pools.   In addition, it was nice to see these rooms as they might have been, rather than what we had seen amid Roman ruins, where you have to envision how things are laid out and work.  

There is no denying that St. Roch has offered us blessings today!

Exploring the town and Dinner

After our Roman bath, we walked around the tiny town, seeing several Camino murals and visiting the Church, San Andres Apostle, who is the patron saint of the community. 

We met a French couple that we haven't seen in quite some time, and ran into several 'new' pilgrims we didn't recognize.  We ended up in the bar, having a cold beer and then a dinner of salad and French fries. It was a little strange - there were five other pilgrims there, but four of the others sat at individual tables, eating alone and looking through their phones. 

We felt as though we should get everyone together, but the volume of the conversations being had by the locals was ear-shattering, making any other kind of communication, or even coherent thought, a bit of a challenge.  In fact, most of the more familiar pilgrims we'd bumped into had fled outside into the rain, apologetically saying it was simply too loud to sit inside.  This has been a recurring theme in the south of Spain.  

Leaving the Camino

Indeed, it was only one lady from England who we have come to know who joined us.  Enjoying a couple of beers and a bag of crisps, she eventually informed us that she had pushed on beyond Merida in the hopes that things would get better.  But tonight she has decided that she is stopping her pilgrimage in Salamanca because the Via de la Plata is “simply too long and boring to continue on.  I want more action on the trail, not just ... trail!”

    

Shocked, we didn’t really know what to say beyond giving her a few generalized encouragements – yet the truth was that we were feeling the weight of this route as well.  Not that it was boring to us, just that its challenges were stretching our mental and emotional reserves to the breaking point.   There was no denying that each day, now we were walking in hope that things would get better.  Especially given that our estimate is that there are anywhere from 25-30 more days on this trail until Santiago.

After dinner, the temperature had really dropped.  We went inside the Church, which was dark and peaceful, and relatively simple, and which I really liked.  Then we made our way back to the Casa Rural. 

The oil lamps had been lit in the courtyards and hallways, and we were surprised to see quite a few other guests dressed up as Romans.  We hung out in the courtyard for a bit, petting some of the cats who were wandering around, and then turned in to bed.  Although it sometimes feels like the scenery and the walking on this Camino are a little monotonous, we realize that each day has really held a lot of interesting and new experiences!

See you on the Way!