Camino Decisions: Riego del Camino to Granja de Moreruela

 “Should I stay or should I go now?
If I go there will be trouble
And if I stay it will be double
So come on and let me know
Should I stay or should I go now?”
                                    The Clash

Via de la Plata Stage 25

Decisions on the Way 

Despite the fact that the albergue was very comfortable and that we were the only ones in the house, neither of us really slept last night as we wondered what to do. Today was decision day - do we keep walking north towards Astorga, and 'finish' the official Via de la Plata route, or do we turn west at Granja de Moreruela and follow the Camino Sanabrés for another 350 (or so) kilometres to Santiago de Compostela?


After contending with few services and long stages on the Via Augusta and Via de la Plata for the past five weeks, it was tempting to head north for a change of pace.  However, we also felt that the Camino is about having faith that things will work out, even when you're exhausted and it feels like there are no good options. Today, this is a lesson we are both struggling with.  


What to do?

Buen Camino 


We struggled out of our sleeping bags around 6:00 AM and made breakfast in the albergue.  We were just finishing up when we heard the front door open, and Paco came in, asking if we needed coffee and began cleaning up.  He seemed to be waiting for us to head out, so we quickly finished up, thanked him for his kindness, and here politely but quickly ushered out onto the street.  To our surprise, Paco walked with us to the edge of town, leading us through the maze of streets and back to the Camino.  



He stopped to show us the highlights of his hometown, including a monument at the edge of the community, which had a tile mural of a man with a hunting rifle.  Paco explained in Spanish who was depicted on it, which I believe was a Spanish prince who had once come to hunt in the region.  A little while later, Paco showed us his home, before stopping at his gate, shaking our hands, and wishing us a hearty 'Buen Camino.'  



This was the first time anyone had ever escorted us out of a town or shaken our hands like that, and the kindness of this one man felt like encouragement to continue on our current path, heading west towards Santiago de Compostela.  Reminding us that, despite the struggles on the Via de la Plata, there are people in the world striving to help those on the Way of St. James. 


Sunrise on the Camino 


Setting off from Riego del Camino, we had only 6 km to Granja de Moreruela and the divergence in the trail.   Yet we still had no idea which way we were going to walk.


As we headed into the fields, the sun was putting on a spectacular show.  As the glowing red disc gained elevation, the sky turned pink, and a shaft of golden light was sent straight upward towards the heavens, while the contrail of an airplane cut across from east to west.  The light from the rising sun seemed to set the field of poppies beside us ablaze with light. 


Trekking along the gravel track, we relished how beautiful the skies and landscapes around us were.


Although we were close to the highway, it was a quiet and peaceful morning. Hills covered in lush green grain and newly ploughed earth gently rose and fell, punctuated every so often by the silhouette of a lone tree standing guard.  The crunching of our footsteps on the gravel path sounded loud in the cool stillness, and perhaps they were, because just ahead of us a long silver fox darted up and over a hill,  his fluid footsteps taking him due west.  With the weight of our decision hanging over us, it felt like the universe was bludgeoning us with the unsubtle message ... head west.



Not long after leaving the village, we turned and crossed over the highway on an elevated bridge.  On the far side was a rabbit warren, with around 20 of its inhabitants scattered in the tall grasses outside.  The rising sun lit up their long pink ears, giving away their hiding places but lending them magnificent profiles.  As we approached, the majority of them fled into their burrows, while several decoys bounded in the opposite direction.



Confusion to mirror our own.

Truck Stop Breakfast


A few minutes after crossing the highway, we came to a Respol gas station and truck stop along the highway. Having watched several YouTube videos by Nadine Walks, we knew there was a place to get café con leche inside, and after our lack of lunch or dinner yesterday, we were hoping there might be breakfast as well.  When we stepped inside, a very kind lady made us coffee, but said there was no toast or croissants.   However, she stepped into the kitchen, asked, and returned in a few moments with two plates of hot buttery toast and marmalade.  Apparently, this wasn't on the menu, but she had been kind enough to make it for us. 



It felt like another message - learn to simply have faith, and things will work out.

As we sat there, a large group of hikers from the albergue in Fonsanilla came in, also in search of breakfast.  They chatted to us, letting us know that the albergue hadn't in fact been full, and that the Hospitaleros had shared a lot of information on the upcoming trail, indicating the Camino Sanabrés would be easier than the previous days on the Via de la Plata. 



Again, it felt as though we were being nudged ... head west, head west.


Granja de Moreruela 


Still undecided, we continued on the final 2 kilometres across the fields to Granja de Moreruela.  It is in this quiet community that we were greeted by a beautiful Camino mural at the edge of town, which showed hikers, birds, and beautiful countryside.  



The village was a little off to the side, nestled at the foot of a steep hill, but right in front of us was a weather-worn set of blue signs, one noting “por Astorga” and the other noting “por Ournese”. 


It was here, only 6 km into the day, that we had to make a decision that would shape our next two weeks on the Camino.

Decision at the Crossroads

By the time we had arrived in Granja de Moreruela, we had walked from Cadiz, covering more than 170 km on the Via Augusta over the course of 9 days and 620 km on the Via de la Plata over 25 stages.  In short, we had already ventured further than the length of the Camino Frances – despite this, however, we had yet to reach our destination and now had a decision to make.  



Do we stay or do we go?  Do we continue onto Santiago on the Camino Sanabres or walk up to Astorga and move onto another route with the time that we have left here in Europe this spring?


Standing there, even after all this time and all the thought we had put into our options, I could not make a choice.  We had been through so much on the Via de la Plata, and I couldn’t imagine continuing on this route.  I simply did not feel that I had the energy to keep struggling so much each day.   With that said, I admit that I was, nevertheless, heavily swayed by the signs of hope from throughout the morning.


Camino Sanabres


In the end, and after 10 minutes of looking at the two unassuming blue signs, Sean was done waiting and simply said, “Well, we’ve never been this way before”, then turned and headed west following toward Ourense on the Camino Sanabrés.   



And so, for better or worse, the decision had been made, and we were moving forward again.  Our trek on the Via de la Plata had come to an end, and we seamlessly walked into the next chapter of our pilgrimage on the Camino Sanabres. 


“...there will be hardships along the way, and we are not guaranteed to succeed...”

Abby Barnes


To see our final thoughts and reflections on our walk from Seville to Santiago on the Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabrés, check out our final entry. 



To continue to read our pilgrimage all the way to Santiago de Compostela on the Camino Sanabrés, follow here. 


See you on the Way!
Location: 49740 Granja de Moreruela, Zamora, Spain
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