Pilgrims in the City: Valdesalor to Casar de Caceres

 "Leave the road, take the trails."
Pythagoras

Via de la Plata Stage 13

Stages and Decisions on the Via de la Plata

Not every day on the Camino is as social media would have us believe. Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok often portray a journey of constant wonder, effortless joy, and spiritual reflection - but the truth is more complex. Some days really are breathtaking, filled with beauty and moments of awe. Others, however, can be tough or even feel like a slog. Whether it’s uncooperative weather, logistics that don’t quite click, or events that conspire to throw off your plans, real life on the trail rarely mirrors the polished, toxic positivity pushed online.

Today’s guidebook notes highlight just such a challenge: the next 40–60 kilometres pose a bit of a logistical puzzle. The recommended stages are 13 km to Cáceres today, followed by another 9–10 km to Casar de Cáceres tomorrow, and then a long 35 km push to Cáñaveral on the third day. While many pilgrims choose this pattern, to us it feels impractical. Short stages of 13 and 10 km in succession would mean higher city prices and more time sitting idle rather than walking.

So, while we’re open to pausing in Cáceres, which is reputed to be a truly beautiful city, we’re leaning toward continuing onward for 24 km today and finishing in Casar de Cáceres instead.

Morning in Valdesalor 

We woke up after a lovely night's sleep, made breakfast in our room, and set off, feeling very pleased that our sodden shoes had managed to dry out overnight.  As we skirted the edge of town, following a short, treed sidewalk with about a dozen benches and garbage bins, the sun rising across the fields held the promise of a beautiful morning, and we were filled with optimism.

We stopped to see if the café was open for a real coffee, and since it was not, we followed the arrows back out of the community, passing a cluster of about seven different signs for the Camino and the town on the way out. 

There was a heart with the town's name, a Camino shell designed like a photo frame, a silver half moon, a statue of a stork nest, and several interpretative plaques for the trails in the area.  It was quite a sight to see, and suggested that someone in the community was very skilled at obtaining funding for tourism projects, and clearly had a love of unique-looking signage.

Return to the Camino

On the far side of the highway, we started down an overgrown farm track.  The grass in this section was nearly waist high, and it was still soaked with dew.   The result being that after an evening of drying out our shoes, the Camino almost immediately led us along a wet and muddy path. 

As such, while the landscape looked extremely pretty in the early morning light, our shoes were completely drenched within a few meters.  With our feet still sore from walking in wet shoes yesterday, it was clear from the start that today was going to be painful. 

We were clearly not the only pilgrims struggling with having wet feet, as just 2 km into the day, most had left the trail and simply walked along the roadway.  A decision we soon agreed with and joined the long line of people marching onward along the pavement’s edge. 

Despite the drenching, the sun did indeed put on quite a show as it rose above the open fields and distant hills.  Golden mist was rising from the pastures and farms, creating overlapping layers in the hills beyond that gave the landscape depth and distance. In the ethereal golden mist, the dark outlines of farm buildings and the silhouettes of grazing horses and sheep stood out in contrast. 

After crossing the first field, we came to a pedestrian walkway that spanned the highway.  As we climbed the long, curving ramp up the bridge, we were blown away by the beauty around us.  Above the fields, the sky was a soft wash of light yellow, soft pink and fluffy white swirls.  Despite our proximity to the highway, it was a peaceful morning, and the cold air left us feeling refreshed.

Sticky Mud and Standing Water

The walk to Caceres would have been beautiful if it had been dry.  However, much of the track was slippery, sticky mud or standing water.  We had to expend a lot of energy picking our way through the mud and trying not to slip, and as a result, we spent much of the time looking at the ground.  This was a little frustrating, as it meant we didn't pay as much attention to our surroundings as we would have liked.

After crossing the road a second time, we began a moderately steep climb on a rocky trail beside the road.  In some ways, this was a relief, as the hard, rocky ground made for a nice change from the mud.  In the background, we could hear Hoopoes calling as we passed beside a walled pine forest and began to see the first homes at the outskirts of the city. 

We crossed the busy road once again and found ourselves following a dry sandy track that curved across meadows filled with brilliant yellow wildflowers.  As we crested a ridge, known as the Puerto de las Camellas, we suddenly could see the buildings of Caceres clustered in a tight group in front of us.  From a distance, the skyline looked like it was dominated by apartment towers, housing developments, and rather ugly modern buildings.  Closer inspection revealed the top of a castle poking up through the modern city, providing a hint of its past.

Caceres Spain

We continued across the field, feeling grateful for the pleasant approach to the city.  Improbably, in front of us, a shepherd and his two sheepdogs were herding their flock of sheep across the fields to a farm. From a distance, the sheep looked quite comical, flowing across the landscape like a bumpy white river. The juxtaposition of urban and rural felt quite surreal.

We followed a quiet road along the side of the city, passing small homes with gardens and lots of tall trees.  Eventually, this gave way to Calle Oceano Atlantico, which was lined with multi-use buildings, distribution centers, and not one but three car repair shops.  The busyness and noise of the city were beginning to build, but it wasn't too bad an approach to a major urban center.

Cáceres is often described as one of Spain’s most spectacular towns, and for good reason. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it boasts some of the most complete collections of medieval and Renaissance architecture in the country, all layered over a much older story. Human settlement here stretches back to the Paleolithic era, but it was the Romans who established the town formally in 25 BC.

Following the collapse of the Roman Empire, Cáceres fell under Visigothic control and later into the hands of the Moorish Almohads. In the 12th century, the city was re-conquered by King Alfonso IX and soon flourished as a vibrant commercial center.

Today, Cáceres is celebrated not only for its rich history but also for its lively tapas culture, making it a favourite stop for both pilgrims and visitors eager to taste the flavours of Extremadura.

The Cicernone Via de la Plata Guidebook reiterated these claims, suggesting its old quarter had quite a few historical monuments and buildings that were well worth exploring, and we had debated whether to stop and spend a night there. 

Our map indicated that the Camino would take us past quite a few historical monuments and buildings, and the first of these was the Iglesia del Espiritu Santo.  This looked like a very warm stone church, but we never found the front of it, and by the time we realized we had walked the wrong way around the outside, there were several people watching us quite intently, trying to figure out what we were doing.  Not wanting to create more of a spectacle, we walked on as they coughed, spat, and stared from the doorway of a nearby bar.

Next, we came to an arch in the center of a very busy roundabout.  It looked as though it had once been part of the city walls, but there was no explanation given, and in its modern context, the location of it didn't make much sense. The sidewalks on all sides of the roundabout were filled with commuters, making it impractical to hang about or take photos, so we once again, we simply continued on.

Soon we passed the Museum of Cultural History, which was housed in a very interesting-looking building with beautiful grounds, but perhaps predictably, it was closed tight.  We had been hoping to stop for a café con leche, perhaps a small snack, and a bit of a break somewhere in the city. 

However, although it was 10 AM on a Wednesday morning, almost everything we passed was still inexplicably closed.  There was one open café with a single available table on the sidewalk, but as we approached, a group of people got up to leave and proceeded to block the entrance, having animated in the doorway. We waited for quite some time while they chatted, fussed about, and stared at us, and then finally gave up and walked on, assuming there would be other opportunities farther along in a city of this size.  We were wrong.

Historical Quarter of Caceres

After this point, the route of the Camino didn't make much sense to us.  The trail wove through the city and around the base of the historic district before turning and venturing down to the bottom of a local river valley.  At what seemed like the lowest point in the region, the Camino then turned and then climbed up what I believe must have been one of the steepest streets in the city. 

It was lined with old and interesting-looking stone buildings, and it led straight into the old quarter, so it probably had historical significance.  However, I can't see anyone, from vendors to pilgrims, to armies voluntarily choosing to walk that steep route as the main entrance to the city.  

At the top of the steep climb, huffing and puffing under the weight of our backpacks, we passed through an arched stone gateway in the ancient city walls and into the old quarter of Cáceres. Beneath our feet, a familiar brass Camino logo reminded us that we were walking through what was once the city’s Arab quarter.

As we climbed further, we came across the Arab Museum, its entrance adorned with a beautiful door knocker and intricately patterned window covering that felt like works of art in themselves. Just a few steps beyond, we passed through a porto and suddenly found ourselves in the midst of utter tourist chaos.

Festivals and Tourists

We had wanted to explore this area a little and were also still hoping to find an open and accessible café, but this was not to be.  It looked like a festival was either being set up or taken down, and there was scaffolding for temporary stages set up in all the main thoroughfares, which effectively blocked the faces of most of the historic buildings in the process

At the same time, multiple tour groups and large school classes were being led through the narrow cobblestone streets and squares by guides, pausing in all the open areas to learn about the history of the buildings and the area.

We did our best to visit the Cathedral, and to look in or at some of the buildings, but two pilgrims with backpacks on seemed always to be in the way of someone. 

It was simply too crowded, and we weren't direct enough to enjoy exploring with our large packs on amid the crowds.  To make matters worse, this was the first tourist area we've encountered without a single open café or restaurant.  It may have helped if we could have taken a break to regroup, but as it was, we were pushed and shoved along until we were back out onto the busy streets of the modern town. 

Walking On

Feeling overwhelmed by the crush of tourists and city crowds, we decided that, sadly, this beautiful historic city was not for us, and so we continued on.  From the old town, we descended through a construction zone and then made our way up a long street lined with modern shops, apartments, hotels, and the Albergue Turistico.  No cafés, though.  On we walked, down crowded sidewalks, busy with locals going about their business and unwilling to make space for others walking.  As such, we trekked through much of this city on the side of the road rather than on the sidewalk.  

Somewhat disappointed with our failure to make the most of Caceres, we headed out of town, following a treed promenade lined with blooming rose bushes and stone benches. 

At the edge of town, we spotted a lovely mural of birds, which ordinarily would have cheered us up.  As it was, we were already feeling somewhat demoralized, and on top of it the yellow arrows for the trail were having a disagreement with the tracks on the Wise Pilgrim App.

The app showed us following a bicycle track down the side of the road to Casar de Caceres, but the arrows were pointing uphill along an exposed dirt track.

Trusting in the local arrows and not on the Wise Pilgrim app, we followed the trail, climbing up a long hill on a sandy track.  Locals were jogging, cycling, and walking their dogs on the trail, making it feel quite busy. 

However, despite the abundance of yellow arrows, we were feeling slightly unsure about heading off in the 'wrong' direction.   We had seen a few pilgrims continue straight on down the highway ahead of us, which made us question the necessity of climbing yet another hill in the hot afternoon sun.  Thankfully, a few kindly 'Buen Caminos' from a passerby helped boost our confidence a little.

Climbing the Camino

The trail was lined with fieldstone walls, and beyond them, rows of olive trees adorned the steep green slopes.  As we climbed, we could look back at the city behind us, the steeple of the Cathedral now dominating the skyline.  To one side, we could see the expanse of a dead flat agricultural plain stretching out to the horizon, where distant hills eventually capped it. 

Wearily, we took a break in the shade of a tree, sitting on the moss-covered stone wall.  As we rested, a Norwegian pilgrim who we often see walking very fast in the mornings, passed us by with a smile.  Earlier, we had seen a French couple in the city whom we've spoken to almost every day as well as several other pilgrims that we were familiar with, but they were all stopping in Caceres.  Perhaps this will be goodbye for a while, as their stage tomorrow will either be 10 km to Casar de Caceres, or 44 km to the next town, and I don't think they will choose the longer stage.  These were the only other pilgrims we've seen today.

Descent into town

Eventually, our climb ended, and we began to descend to the plain we'd seen below us.  Almost immediately, we noticed a difference here.  The trail was mostly dry, and the grassy fields were partially burnt brown.  On this side of the hills, there had obviously been much less rain!  A break from mud and wet shoes would certainly be a welcome change!

We followed the sandy track through beautiful grassy fields filled with wildflowers for what felt like forever. A highlight was passing a sign for the Llanos de Caceres y Sierra de Fuente that explained we were walking through a zone of special protection for birds. It outlined some of the species we could expect to see, including Great Bustard, Little Bustard, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Calandra Lark, Red-legged Partridge, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Eurasian Hoopoe, European Roller, Little Owl and Stone-curlew!

The walking was pleasant, as we traversed fields of gold under brilliant blue skies before crossing under the highway.  Yet for whatever reason, this short stretch seemed like it went on forever.  

I think this was an example of how a bad mindset can affect our perception of a day or an event.  Later, when I am sitting writing my travel journal, I can see the many blessings this day has brought, and recognize that as we lived through it, we often fail to appreciate or even see many of them.

Casar de Caceres

Finally, we reached the edge of Casar de Caceres, and once again found ourselves walking down a wide pedestrian promenade with a line of palm trees down the middle and lush plantings on either side.  The guidebook had noted that this community was strung out in a long line along the roadway, originally a Roman road, where development first grew to serve the steady stream of travellers. It proved to be an apt description.

As we walked, it struck us how little the essence of this pattern has changed. Centuries ago, Roman soldiers and merchants would have relied on these same routes for rest, food, and supplies. Today, pilgrims and modern travellers continue the tradition, pausing at cafés, small shops, and guesthouses that line the way. In a sense, each new generation of wayfarers keeps the spirit of the road alive, linking past and present with every step.

We passed the municipal swimming pool and a very modern-looking albergue, and continued on, stopping at the first café we came to.  We gratefully sat down and ordered two Aquarius, drinking them down pretty much in one go.  We then asked for two Cervecas, and to our amazement, for the first time on this trek, the waiter brought a menu out and asked if we wanted anything to eat.  Typically, when we arrive in town, the kitchens are all closed until 8:30 or 9 PM.  Immediately, we asked for a plate of patatas bravas as well as some tapas and offered our sincere thanks!

We sat on the patio, enjoying our beer and one of the first meals in a month that didn't involve bread and cheese.  Two pilgrims we've never seen before, one wearing a giant scallop shell around her neck, sat down beside us, reminding us how much our original group had spread out now, and how many new faces we can expect to see on the trail in the coming days.

Bird Life International

Eventually, we made our way to our lodgings for the night.  To our amazement, when we went to check in, we discovered the office doubled as a local adventure tour operator. They offered biking, hiking, fishing, and safari experiences, as well as birding trips! We found several pamphlets (in English!) on bird watching in Spain, and when the very kind lady showed us up to the apartment, we noticed a decal on the door indicating it had been approved by Bird Life International as a sustainable ornithological tourism destination. 

I found this exciting, not just as an avid bird watcher but as someone who hiked and completed the 28,000 km Trans Canada Trail across Canada on a #Hike4Birds in support of citizen science and avian conservation.  What are the odds?

To our delight, the apartment had a washing machine and a sunny terrace on which to dry things, so we set about having showers and doing laundry properly for the first time in several weeks.  It 

felt very good to get properly cleaned up. There really is nothing quite like the smell of clean clothes!

Exploring Casar de Caceres

When we went back out to the Dia, only to be told it was closed until 5:30 PM, so we decided to explore town.  Following the advice of the guidebook, we made sure to visit the “iconic” bus station, which turned out to be a folded concrete structure that looked like it belonged in Star Trek.  Clearly, it is a point of local pride.  

We also walked past the church, which, predictably, was closed.  All the businesses were also closed for siesta.  As we wandered the streets, it seemed as though no matter which way we turned, someone needed to park where we were standing or to turn down the narrow street we were walking on. With the crowds of Caceres still weighing on our minds, we decided it was best to retreat to the quiet of our rooms.

We spent a low-key afternoon editing photos and writing, and when the Dia opened once again, we went for another walk, bought supplies for a small dinner and for tomorrow's breakfast.  We then spent a quiet evening enjoying our meal and listening to the birds outside. 

See you on the Way!