Challenges and Trail Angels: La Calzada de Bejar to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra

 "True adventure lies in slowing down and letting the world unfold at its own pace."

Via de la Plata Stage 19

Morning on the Way

We woke up around 6:30 AM, but didn't want to get out of bed.  We had enjoyed the profound quiet and fresh mountain air of our cozy room above the bar in La Calzada de Bejar.  Finally, we went downstairs for breakfast, which consisted of toast, orange juice, and delicious café con leche.  There was only one other pilgrim there, who was just finishing and heading out as we entered.  The hostess from last night was back at work, looking weary but smiling and full of kindness.  I think it is her family alone that is keeping this town alive.

Grateful for a wonderful evening and filling breakfast, we set off around 8:15 AM, the sun already shining on the tiny village and lighting up the gigantic conifer tree that looms over the center of town.  We followed the arrows down a street lined with colonnaded balconies, many of which were collapsing under the weight of time and neglect.  This was the first town we've come to in this part of Spain with so many colonnaded balconies, and we wondered why it had its own unique architecture.  It also seemed like more than half the homes along the main street were empty, speaking of an industry that had once thrived in the area but was now long gone.  

Return to the Via de la Plata

As we followed the curving street out of town, we passed a Casa Rural with a wooden box out front that had a self-serve pilgrim stamp.  A little farther along, we came to an old stone fountain and a Camino-themed statue.

Then, just like that, we were back out in the countryside on a very quiet paved laneway.  Immediately, we were stunned by the beauty around us.  The road was bordered by fieldstone walls, tall grasses, and brilliant yellow, purple, and white wildflowers.  Beyond this were meadows and trees, and in the background, snow-covered mountains stood out against the clear blue sky.

The air was crisp, and we noticed that for the second time on this Camino all the grasses and flowers were coated in a thick layer of frost.  Long spiky tendrils clung to the stems of the grasses, the petals of the wildflowers, and the edges of the leaves.  In the early morning light, they all sparkled silver, and their individual patterns were fascinating.

Sunrise on the Camino

As the sun rose, the frost began to melt, and we could hear the pitter-patter of water droplets falling from the trees in the still morning air.  Our progress ground to a near halt as we stopped every few steps to take in and photograph the meadows, the fieldstone walls, and the snow-capped mountains.  Every so often, we would pass small ponds as well, the still waters perfectly reflecting the sky, the trees, and the mountains.

We followed an overgrown grassy track along a hydro corridor for a bit, and then turned down a quiet dirt lane.  The scenery just seemed to get better and better, and we trekked through meadows along a path bordered by Spanish lavender and other wildflowers.  Along the way, we also passed multiple milinarios, the stone markers used by the Romans.  It was a powerful reminder that we were walking in the footsteps of others.

Not only was the scenery stunning, but we also spotted many birds as we walked the quiet country lanes.  Eurasian Chaffinches and European Robins were among the species we have just started to see many of in the past few days.  We also spotted quite a few different raptors soaring in the blue skies above us, including a Black Kite and a Booted Eagle.

Since our progress was so slow, other pilgrims began to catch up with us.  We found ourselves following an elderly gentleman who we've been on nodding terms for the past few days.  At one point, we came to a stream crossing where the stepping stones were very rounded and worn and covered in moss. 

We watched with some trepidation as this elderly pilgrim slipped and wobbled across the stones, getting caught in a low-hanging branch at the far side.  We cheered when he successfully made it across.  I chose to follow in his footsteps, having learned from his progress, while Sean opted to take his shoes and socks off and wade across the icy water. 

Valverde de Valdelacasa

Just after 10:00 AM, we made it to the edge of Valverde de Valdelacasa, a quiet mountain village where the guidebook suggested there might be a bar open for coffee.   We were greeted by an artistically done metal sign for the Santiago Bar, and soon the Camino brought us to Iglesia de Santiago Apostol. 

We were very pleased to see that the church door was open, and when we went inside, a very kind man came and turned on the lights so we could see the altar. We were very grateful for the opportunity, but surprised to see two depictions of Santiago Matamoros (as opposed to the pilgrim) on the altar.

From the church, uncharacteristically, the Camino led us through the town to the bar.  There was a lot of Camino spirit with statues, murals, and rest areas for pilgrims throughout.  The bar was quite beautiful, and it had round stone picnic tables outside in the shade, as well as a landscaped area with a shelter outside.  When we arrived, we met a Basque couple, Flor and Eduardo, whom we had seen on the trail almost every day.  They were just setting off and bid us 'Buen Camino' as they continued on.

We enjoyed a lovely café con leche while sitting in the sunshine.  It was 8.8 km into our walk, which made a perfect time for a break. As we enjoyed our coffees, several sets of cyclists stopped by as well, coming in from a network of trails in the area, including EuroVelo Route 1. This is clearly a cycling hub in the region, making us wonder what adventures await in different parts of the network that we will not be visiting.

Countryside Trekking 

We left town on a quiet paved laneway that climbed ever so slightly through the fields.  It was another 3 km to the next tiny village, and the kilometres seemed to speed past.  We wondered if we were being passed and re-passed by the same white cars and delivery trucks, and perhaps we were, but they were moving slowly and left us lots of space, making it a peaceful walk overall. 

In this stretch, we noticed that broom and gorse bushes are much more prevalent here than they were farther south, at least along the trail, and both are now blooming yellow.

The Camino skirted around the edge of the village, but we diverted into the center to take a look at the church.  This village was little more than a collection of homes in the countryside, but it did have a strong Camino spirit as well, with a fountain and several works of art placed at strategic points throughout.  Although the guidebook suggested there would be a bar or café in the next town, we did not find one. 

Around the Quarry 

As we continued on, we noticed several pilgrims had already called it a day, resting at a roadside bus stop. Our best guess was that we still had 10–12 kilometres to cover before reaching the day’s destination.

Continuing on the trail led us around a quarry, where the sky above was alive with a kettle of Cinereous Vultures, circling gracefully in the afternoon light. Along the route, spring flowers dotted the edges of the path, though the trees were just beginning to leaf out, their tiny new leaves a delicate, pale green.

Fields stretched around us, home to cows, horses, and even the occasional Iberian pig. Adding a layer of history to the journey, we passed several Roman military mile posts, quiet markers of centuries past, standing amidst the awakening landscape.

Fuenterroble de Salvatierra

When we arrived in Fuenterroble de Salvatierra, we almost immediately felt there was a lot of Camino money being spent here. The small village sat isolated in the middle of vast fields, but its streets had icons of the Way along them and were filled with expensive cars being driven by well-dressed and rather snobby-acting young people who seemed to be in a great hurry, driving around, honking aggressively, and being generally rude. All of which is extremely unusual in rural Spain, and we were puzzled by the shift in attitude. 

Walking into town, we passed a beautiful Camino mural and the closed Iglesia de Santa Maria la Blanca.  Following the sidewalk, we found a spot outside the main bar where we enjoyed a break with a cold drink in the shade.  The other tables were filled with pilgrims, many of whom we didn't recognize, and oddly, most of whom hadn't checked in to the albergue yet, opting to sit with their packs beside them on the sidewalk.  The albergue in this town is a donativo albergue run by a priest and former pilgrim, and by all accounts, it is a highlight of this Camino.  Our intention had been to stay there, but we were beginning to wonder if there would be any spaces available.

Culture Clash 

We had just decided we should go see if we could check in at the albergue when a string of weird things happened.  

A few tables away sat the pilgrim we suspected of stealing from us and others, and who we’d seen rummaging through my backpack a couple of days earlier. He was now deep in conversation with a group of young male pilgrims, clearly well into their drinks. The volume of their discussion suddenly spiked as they switched to English - just as their tone turned harsh. They were loudly criticizing the U.S. government and declaring that all Americans should be “taught a lesson” and “taken for everything they have” as retribution for the country’s aggressive foreign policies.

It was a long, loud, and unpleasant tirade. Several other pilgrims got up and left the area to distance themselves. It was hard to shake the feeling that the switch to English had been intentional, meant to send a message to those pilgrims around them.

Interestingly, we haven’t met any Americans on this Camino yet, though we’ve heard others muttering about them, and been questioned by those who saw the Canadian Flag patch on our backpacks. It made us wonder whether this performance was aimed at someone in particular or simply those whom they thought might be American. Sean, wearing his baseball cap, often gets mistaken for being American. Regardless, we both found it deeply unfair to target individuals for the attitudes of their government. 

The Camino, after all, is for everyone. 

The ‘Vibe’ of the Camino

As this conversation went on, another pilgrim whom we had never seen before, a mid to late-aged hippie with a fedora hat and vibrant orange shorts, all of a sudden jumped up as a black Mercedes car raced down the road.  He moved, without his shoes on, to stand in front of the vehicle to dance in front of it, yelling for people “to just chill down, and slow down”.  Regardless of the driver’s comments and constant honking, he kept dancing while lecturing about his "old soul" and the “vibe he gave off” so that people “could feel the way”.

Following these odd displays, the same drunken hippie stumbled off the road and abruptly moved to sit at our table.  Dropping into a chair and without introducing himself, he immediately asked if I was looking to have fun for the evening and “wondered if I was going to come with him to the albergue tonight?”  His comments were as blunt, rude and direct as that.  When I brushed him off, he jumped up and marched off to the albergue in a tantrum that would have made a 2-year-old proud.  

Somewhat dismayed by this weird series of events, we were left wondering if this obnoxious behaviour would continue if we stayed in the albergue.  

Finding Accommodations 

Not up to the potential challenges of the albergue and its present inhabitants, we turned to the only other options in town, the two listed Casa Rurals.   I was really disappointed at having to make this decision, as the albergue here is noted as being really interesting.  It is termed by many as the “heart of the Via de la Plata” owing to the local priest who runs the albergue, Father Blas.

The situation, however, was what it was, and so, other accommodations had to be found. 

Striving to avoid calling and inquiring with my limited Spanish language skills, I reserved a room.  Upon paying an excessive 70 Euros online, I received a text with a phone number to call to arrange access to our accommodations.  Phoning the number, I was immediately met with someone speaking rapid-fire Spanish with no patience for another person who could not keep up with the conversation.  The host of our room eventually hung up on me.

The most I had gotten from the conversation was to follow the instructions.  Checking email once again, I only found directions to call the host and the address of the accommodations.  Uncertain if I was supposed to meet someone at our reserved accommodations, I walked over to the emailed address and waited for 30 minutes with no results.  I called once again, but the owner never answered. 

Dispirited, I returned to the bar where Sean sat with our backpacks and gear.  Frustrated and getting nowhere – as well as nervous that we would have to walk on - I wasn’t certain what to do when Flor and Eduardo, two familiar Basque pilgrims, walked up to say hello.  They don't speak any English, but they realized what I was trying to do, and Flor very quickly helped us find another room in Casa Rural Via de la Plata, where they were staying.  It was a very kind offer, and we certainly felt more comfortable with this option than either the albergue or trying to access our reserved room. 

Evening in Fuenterrobles de Salvatierra

The Casa Rural Via de la Plata was beautiful, and after checking in, we had our showers and did our laundry.  Eventually, we headed back out to explore and look for food.  We walked to the edge of town, where the large stone church stood guard on the edge of the fields.  

Outside of it, a piece of Roman road had been excavated, and you could see the layers of stone they used in the construction of these roads that kept them strong for centuries.  It was really quite interesting.  Opposite the church, we explored an area along the river that was undergoing ecological restoration, and then we stopped to pet a curious horse, which seemed intent on nibbling on my pants.  

After exploring the tiny community, we went to the grocery store, which we had heard would open for half an hour from 6:30-7:00 PM.  It seemed to exist solely to serve pilgrims, and when we got inside, it was full of people.  We bought some bread and soup, jam, and coffee for the morning.  

Unfortunately, when we returned to the Casa Rural, we discovered that what we bought wasn't so much soup as broth, which basically left us with flavoured water for Dinner.  However, it was too late to go back and buy chips or anything else, so we went to bed feeling both hungry and a little puzzled by this evening’s events.  

Some days, the frustrations and disappointments of the trail feel as though they are going to overwhelm you.  In the end, all you can do is try to keep moving forward in the hope that things will get better and in the faith that tomorrow will be a new day with new possibilities.

Hopefully, tomorrow brings more positivity ... and some food.

See you on the Way!