Every Step a Lesson: Almadena de la Plata to Monesterio

 "Every tree is a lesson in patience, every mountain a lesson in perspective."

Via de la Plata Stage 4

It was another mostly sleepless night in the albergue, although to be fair, the snoring was relatively quiet and regular, and most people (those not having sex) were pretty quiet. It is simply hard to sleep with it being so warm in the small room, and given the fact that on a previous night someone had stolen from our backpacks. So, when the morning activity began around 5:00 AM, we somewhat gratefully slipped out of our bunks and took our bags to the kitchen common area to pack up.  As we ate a breakfast of rather dry bread and jam and instant coffee, we could hear the voices of many House Martins feeding their babies in the nests under the eaves outside our window. They were a very noisy bunch.  

Exhausted after several days of hiking with almost no sleep, we finally decided it was time to get a room. At 5:30 AM in the morning, I stood outside the albergue and made reservations for that night. We don’t usually like to stay in hotels on the Camino, but the combination of long stages, rising temperatures, and the constant race for bunks was beginning to wear us down. From past experience on the Camino Francés and Camino Portugués, we’ve learned that after three or four nights in the larger dormitories of the albergues, we need the pause and restoration that comes with a quiet private room.

The albergue was located fairly close to the edge of town, so it was a very short uphill push through lit streets and around a garbage truck that was making its rounds, and then we were off into the darkness.  

Today, the Via de la Plata overlapped with the GR 48, which in Spain stands for Gran Recorrido or “Big Trail.” This long-distance hiking route stretches some 550 km across the entire Sierra Morena mountain range. A quick search online makes it sound both rugged and enticing, and it feels like yet another reminder that the Camino has a way of opening doors to future journeys we never expected.

We followed the flat gravel track through a small forested area, listening to the footsteps of pilgrims on the trail behind us.  As the first faint light began to show, we came to the first of many ponds and stopped to look at the reflection of the stars in its still, mirror-like surface. 

Camino by Lamplight

As we paused at the water's edge, a group of pilgrims passed by, and we could see their headlamps stretching out into the darkness ahead.  We had seen a similar sight while walking across the Meseta on the Camino Frances, and it is one of my favourite memories of our first pilgrimage.  Seeing those bobbing points of light, as though they are a part of the Compostela, or field of stars,  was a beautiful reminder that these ancient pathways and pilgrimage routes are not just physical trails, but rather living paths that are both shaped and kept alive by those who walk them.

Still in the darkness, we passed through a metal farm gate and into a grove of trees with a flock of sheep grazing beneath.  They began baaing excitedly at the pilgrims in front of us, and the dog from the farmhouse began barking.  When it was our turn to pass by, the dog came up to Sean very quietly and wanted to be petted.  He seemed to enjoy being told he was doing a very good job guarding his sheep flock.

About halfway through the farmyard, there was some confusion by those ahead of us as to whether we were heading in the wrong direction, but we soon passed through another gate and followed the drive out to the quiet gravel track that we would follow for the next 13 km or so. At the time, it seemed like this was the only option, as there was no other way to move forward, but we left quite a few people behind, debating about the route, and they never seemed to catch up to us or pass us by, so what happened to them and what route they took all remains a mystery.

Forest Sunrise

As the sky continued to brighten, we could see we were surrounded by tall, steep hills.  The extremely bright white light of a planet was again shining off to our right, but this morning the crescent of the moon was hidden behind the dark outlines of the surrounding slopes.  As the sun rose higher, the sky turned a pale yellow, but it didn't seem to have the same brilliance as yesterday. Perhaps this was because it was slightly warmer and less humid today.

It became apparent very quickly that we were walking the length of a forested valley, with olive groves, cork oak forests, and pastures on either side of the trail.  The path constantly undulated up and down, at times quite steeply, and in many of the dips, there were small streams or ponds that had gorgeous reflections in the soft morning light. 

As we were passing through a particularly peaceful stretch of olive trees and tall green grass, we came to a beautiful white statue of Santa Maria de Navarre beside a small white and blue tile plaque which said 'Peregrinos aqui esta tu madre' - pilgrims, here is your mother.  Standing in the grove in the cool, quiet morning air, surrounded by bird song, it was quite easy to believe this comforting message.

As we walked slowly on, we crossed through many agricultural gates which were there to protect sheep, horses, cows, and goats. At one of the farms, another large sheep dog, this time with a lame paw, came out and wanted to be petted, leaning against our legs so hard we nearly fell over. As the curious sheep gathered by the fence to watch, the clanking of their bells made a comforting din in the still morning air.

Change of Landscape

Around this point, we noticed a subtle shift in the landscape, with more rocky schist appearing at the side of the trail, smaller rocks being scattered across the fields, and the sudden appearance of fieldstone walls separating the paddocks and pastures.  It seems that the division between Andalusia and Extremadura is more than just political - it is reflected by a shift in geology as well. We also noticed a sudden prevalence of power towers, with lines crisscrossing the landscape seemingly in every direction.

As the morning progressed, we began to ascend out of the treed valley.  At first, the climb was gradual, but then it became steeper and steeper.  At one point, the switchbacks were so tightly turned that they were concreted over to hold them in place.  We could see the golden light of the sun illuminating the hills around us as we climbed out of the cool, shady valley. 

Each time we thought we had reached the top of the ascent, we would turn the corner and find another steep section of gravel trail.  We clawed our way up that ... only to find more hill.  Climb, hope, walk on. Repeat. 

Eventually, we reached the top, where we had a view out over the treed valley we'd been walking along all morning.  It was peaceful and beautiful, and there was a nice breeze at the top. However, there was a large herd of horses grazing among the trees up there, and it seemed like they had been using the trail as their communal latrine.  With the entire forest at their disposal, they seemed to focus on the path.  Perhaps this was a comment on what they thought of pilgrims invading their fields.

Almost as soon as we reached the summit of the hill, we began descending again on a rather sketchy footpath of loose gravel and mud.  We had been leapfrogging all morning with a nice pilgrim from Quebec, and he passed us on the downhill, nearly jogging as he went. Partway down, he ran straight into a branch, which knocked his hat off and nearly knocked him off his feet. We took it more slowly, and thankfully, we all made it down safely.

El Real de la Jara

At the foot of the hill, we arrived at a wide gravel agricultural track that led through beautiful farm country to the town of Real de la Jara.  It was a much flatter section of trail, and also surrounded by lovely scenery.  Large cork oak forests were protected behind fieldstone walls that bisected the landscape in interesting patterns.  Information plaques described the flora that thrived among the trees, and while we didn't stop to read the details, it was clear that a great diversity of plants and trees were thriving as a result of the protection measures being taken.

As we walked, we enjoyed the colourful wildflowers, which provided a subtle wash of colour above the lush green grasses.  This wasn't the brilliant and almost oversaturated yellows and purples of the park yesterday, but rather a much softer set of purples, yellows, and pinks.  With the light and shadows playing in the grass, caused by the cool breeze, the scene was very beautiful. Among the flowers were spotted the ubiquitous Corn Buntings and Thekla's Larks, and we even caught a glimpse of the brilliant yellow, turquoise, and red plumage of European Bee-Eaters.

As we approached the town, we spotted a huge castle off in the distance, perched on the side of a forested hill, seemingly keeping watch on the valley.  As we got closer, we could see the red roofs and white buildings of Real de la Jara, and we began to see more cyclists and walkers on the track around us. Overhead, the huge silhouette of a Eurasian Griffon drifted lazily in the clear blue sky.

Break along the Way 

We arrived in the small town around 10:00 AM and followed the arrows to the center, where there was an open bar.  Most of the patrons were elderly Spanish men who were drinking anise liqueur, and who may well have still been there from the night before.  However, we got two café con leches, and as we enjoyed them at a table on the sidewalk, more and more pilgrims arrived for their breaks.

Above us, the town clock tower suddenly struck with great volume.  It had a single White Stork nest perched on top, and the adult looked completely unfazed by the noise.  We stepped off the Camino to visit the church, which also had two large stork nests on top.  It was a simple church on the outside, painted all white, and looked quite beautiful against the clear blue sky in a minimalist sort of way.

Afternoon Temperatures

As the sun was out and the temperature was beginning to rise, we headed out of town, pausing to look back at the village as we went.  Many of the people we've come to know and talked with stopped in this town today instead of walking the 35 km to Monesterio. As such, by continuing on, we were leaving some familiar faces behind, at least for now.  By the same token, we were also joining a new cohort of pilgrims.  As if to emphasize this, we walked past an elegant and almost ethereal-looking lady dressed all in white on the edge of town, who reminded us of a Henro from Japan.

The path out of town was gorgeous, running along a stone wall beyond which waved tall grasses, blood red poppies, and waves of purple and yellow wildflowers.  Soon we descended a small slope to a very slippery creek crossing, on the far side of which stood several interpretive plaques, a huge Camino shell and sign, and the ruins of a small stone castle.

Entering Extremadura

The interpretive signs welcomed us to Extremadura, marking our exit from Andalusia. Extremadura is typified by vast grazing areas known as dehesas, where cows, sheep, goats, and Iberian pigs outnumber people. The red soil is baked dry under the sun, and the landscape is a patchwork of colourful fields dotted with oak and olive trees. The region is also known for having some of the toughest and driest summers in Spain, particularly in June, July, and August. Extremadura signals a shift in the rhythm of the trail.  Here, the stages get longer, the weather more relentless, and the quiet expanses invite slower, more deliberate steps.

Stepping between provinces, we immediately noticed that the trail markers have also changed and are now large white marble blocks with a yellow and green colour-coded markers on one side, a Camino shell and arrow on the other, and an arch with the Roman road depicted on the top.  It suddenly felt like we had made some progress!

Since the temperatures were climbing and we still had 20 km to go, we passed the stone castle of Castillo de las Torres with its two White stork nests and kept on going.  By this point, it felt as though audible populations of storks could be found on almost every available tower, wall or steeple in southern Spain. 

The landscape continued much as before, through olive groves and cork forests bordered by fieldstone walls.  However, a highlight was passing a very large herd of Iberian Pigs, many of whom had wallowed in fresh mud, and all of whom had unique and interesting expressions on their long faces.  Sean noticed that many of them folded their ears over - perhaps to shade their eyes, which, if so, was very clever!

As we walked, we noticed what looked like a huge mine beside us.  It was a very tall, terraced pile of stone that reminded us of the open-pit coal mines we'd walked past in Sparwood, B.C., on the Trans Canada Trail.  Sure enough, it was the Mina Aquablanco, a nickel mine that exports its ore to Asia. 

Most interesting to us was a large group of Eurasian Griffons and Common Buzzards circling in a kettle above the slope of its sides.  As we looked up at the silently circling birds, we noticed that the sky was also absolutely full of swallows! 

Buen Camino

By this point, we were moving from patch of shade to patch of shade, seeking refuge from the hot sun. Walking this trail in the height of summer would be challenging, to say the least - impractical at best. Temperatures here are regularly reported to range from 35 to 45 degrees Celsius, but today, thankfully, it was only around 25 degrees. For us, the heat shapes the rhythm of the day, forcing slower, deliberate steps and frequent pauses, turning the act of walking into a lesson in patience and pacing.

We managed to spot quite a few lizards of at least two types, but most of them were far too fast to photograph.  We were also passed by several large groups of cyclists who all cheered us on with enthusiastic 'Buen Caminos!' We appreciated the encouragement, as the heat was beginning to take its toll.

Around noon, we saw the white building of the hospital in El Cuberin appear among the trees ahead.  It was a strange approach to the town, which we never really saw.  Instead, the trail took us to the edge and then spun us around a roundabout on the rather busy highway.  This was a bit of a dodgy move, more typical of our time on the Via Augusta, but at least the arrows were clear, and there was a small footpath to follow partway through the roundabout.

Roundabouts and Truck Stops

In stepping onto the side of this roadway, there could not be a starker contrast between the peaceful, cool forests that we had ventured through this morning and the waves of heat and roar of trucks that now assaulted us.  

At the far side of the road was a huge and very busy truck stop and hotel.  We ducked inside (which was air-conditioned) and got four ice-cold Aquarius drinks, which we drank almost in one go.  We saw quite a few other pilgrims inside the cafeteria, many of whom had ordered huge lunches of meat and fries.  While we could appreciate the need to keep our energy up, we couldn't imagine eating a large and hot meal and then having to strap on our packs and head back out into the heat.  We would have been ill.

After our break, we continued on. From here, we had 10 km to go amid 30-degree temperatures.  Leaving the truck stop cafe, we navigated the busy parking lot, traversed a roundabout and continued on along a narrow footpath that followed along the side of the highway, first leading up to a small hermitage. 

Unfortunately, the small stone building had been pretty much destroyed inside, filled with garbage and covered in graffiti.  It made us sad to think that a place that was once loved and cared for had fallen to neglect.  Perhaps one day it will be rejuvenated and come alive again.

Thankfully, the beautiful footpath continued beside the highway and along an access road, keeping us away from the speeding cars, for the next 10 km until we reached Monsaterio.  We said a heartfelt 'thank you' to whoever made this pathway - it was so much cooler on the path than on the asphalt, as well as much safer.  

Climb to Monasterio

By early afternoon, it had grown uncomfortably hot in the extreme, and we were moving from shade tree to shade tree again.  The approach to Monasterio was up a long hill, which towards the end was quite steep. 

We could see the heat shimmering on the road ahead and behind.  Two other pilgrims were struggling along beside us, also moving from tree to tree at a snail's pace and drinking water every few minutes.  Thankfully, about halfway up the hill, we found a cattle trough with running water and all stopped to wet our neck scarves and hats, helping to cool us off.

Nevertheless, it was a brutal 2-3 km of climbing on the exposed stretch to the top of this hill.

Night Sky Observatory

At the top of the long hill, near the edge of town, we passed a mirador, which was both a lookout over the valley and a night sky observatory, complete with lounge chairs to recline on while looking up at the night sky.  It was another connection to the 'field of stars' that kept us company on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.  We made a brief stop to explore it, earning strange looks from the other two pilgrims who limped past in the blazing heat.  

The final push into town took us past an abandoned campground, the tall, unmown grasses swallowing up the picnic tables and hiding the bags of abandoned trash.

At the edge of town, we came to a large roundabout, at the center of which stood a huge statue of a ham leg.  Shortly afterward, we passed an Iberian Ham Museum, and as we followed the streets through town, we saw posters for Ham Day celebrations.  Clearly, we had entered the Ham Capital of Spain!

Monasterio 

The municipal albergue for Monasterio was a few kilometres beyond the town, but since we were quite exhausted from three sleepless nights in albergues, we had booked a room in a hostel for tonight.  It was a long uphill walk through town, and we stopped for a cold drink across the street from the hostel before checking in. 

As we sat there, a taxi stopped out front and deposited four pilgrims.  A few minutes later, another taxi pulled up and let out three more pilgrims as well as their mountain of luggage.   We have noticed that quite a few people on this route, especially older pilgrims, are taking taxis as a strategy for tackling the longer stages.   With very few services and places to stop, this may be the only viable strategy if you are unable or unwilling to walk more than 20-25 km in one go.

Eventually, we checked into our room, which was clean and at first seemed to be quiet.  We took showers, did our laundry, and headed back out for a lovely dinner of veggie burgers at the same bar we stopped at earlier. Afterwards, we walked back through to town, exploring a little and visiting the gas station to get some snacks for tomorrow.  When we returned to the hotel to write our travel journals and clean up our gear, we heard the telltale squeaking of bed springs and moans of ecstasy and disappointment from the room above, but assumed we were so tired we would soon be asleep despite the amorous activities in the room above.  

We couldn't have been more wrong.

See you on the Way!