Camino along Country Roads: Fuente de Cantos to Zafra

 “The road asks no questions...it simply offers the next step”

Via de la Plata Stage 6

At some point last night, the power was restored, and the streetlights outside our apartment flicked on.  Otherwise, nothing changed - no noises broke the silence, and the peace remained.  It was one of the best nights of sleep we've had since sailing across the Atlantic Ocean on Wind Surf nearly a month ago, and over the last two weeks walking the Via Augusta and Via de la Plata.  As a result, though we felt refreshed, we were loath to get up out of our cozy bed and begin the day. If the option had been to remain here for the next month, I think I would have happily done so. Despite our love of our accommodations, however, the Way calls...

After a breakfast of toast, jam, and instant coffee, we finally headed out around 7:00 AM.  The sun had not yet risen, but the sky was already a pale blue, and the puffy clouds were glowing pink.  It was cool and peaceful, and as we passed by the church, taking one last look at the Lesser Kestrels circling above it, the tower appeared to glow in the early morning light, and the palm trees lining the square out front looked truly magnificent.

The sun was just coming up over the horizon as we walked out of Fuente de Cantos.  Today promised to be a fairly regular day on the Camino, with a stage of some 24 km.  Yet, yesterday’s power outage had reminded us, even a “regular” day can hold the unexpected on a journey this long.

We followed the arrows we passed the Museo Julian Gonzales Garcia, as we made our way to the edge of town without much difficulty and were soon following a dirt track through the countryside.  The first seven kilometres of the walk paralleled the road and were mostly uneventful save for being slightly muddy.  However, we were treated to a beautiful golden sunrise, a cool breeze, and fields filled with a huge variety of different grasses, from plump wheat stalks to delicate and feathered varieties of different grains.

Calzadilla de los Barros

Around 10:00 AM, we arrived in Calzadilla de los Barros, a small town nestled in the midst of the fields.  We made our way to the central square, which was paved with grey and white cobblestones and lined with neat rows of orange trees that seemed to be both blooming and producing fruit at the same time.  It was very quiet in the town, and we decided to detour off the Camino towards the church to take a look around.

The church, built in the Mudejar style from reddish stone and brick, had a striking and unusual shape. Unfortunately, it was closed.  This is a frustration we encountered frequently along the Via de la Plata. It felt like a missed opportunity: no stamps for the pilgrim credential, and no chance to connect with the spiritual or historical atmosphere of the Camino.

On the Camino Francés, even a decade ago, churches were often open, inviting pilgrims in to rest, reflect, or simply experience the quiet beauty inside. On this route, most churches are closed, and the regional monuments that are open often charge a fee. It’s a reminder that each Camino has its own rhythm and character, shaped as much by the people and places as by the trail itself.

As seems usual here, the church also had two White Stork nests at the top, which also had a pair of kestrels flying around them.  We spent a few minutes looking around and photographing the church, and then I took a seat to reorganize my backpack, which was really uncomfortable today and seemed to be pinching a nerve in my leg.  Some days are just bad backpack days.

Bakeries and Café con Leche

While I fussed with my pack, Sean noticed a panaderia at one side of the Church and went inside to investigate. He came out with two bags of cookies and reported that the smell inside was heavenly. As we sat in the courtyard munching on the delicious and freshly baked cookies, a pilgrim we had seen a few times over the past couple of days but not spoken to yet joined us.  We recognized her owing to her hiking clothing, which consisted of red pants and a blue shirt which had beautifully embroidered shells all over it.  She mentioned that there was delicious coffee around the corner, and we pointed out the bakery to her.  She headed into the bakery, and we headed to the café, where we did indeed enjoy a delicious cup of coffee.

Our second breakfast was likely unnecessary, but we greatly enjoyed it.  Sometimes it is the little moments that bring the most joy and create the strongest memories, and we have been really enjoying slowing down a little. Eventually, however, we did continue on, passing a yard with some large brown pigs at the edge of town that were very curious and happily nibbled at some grass from our side of the fence when I offered it to them. Until this Camino, I had never paid much attention to the expressions and personalities of pigs.  As it turns out, they are really quite endearing.

Wildflowers and Birds

For the rest of the day, we essentially followed a gravel track through a wide open, expansive agricultural landscape.  At the outset, we passed fields of grain and grass that were mixed with a riot of wildflowers.  Today it seemed like poppies were more abundant than in previous days, with more red than purple, yellow, and white in the usual mix of wildflowers that blanketed the meadows around us. Early on, we were accompanied by a Red Kite circling overhead, while the grasses and bushes hosted the usual complement of Thekla's Larks and Corn Buntings.

As we walked, we could see a line of forested hills to the west of us.  Every so often, we would spot a small village tucked into a valley, sitting among the trees like a patch of unmelted snow.  These hills kept us company for most of the day’s walk, at times receding into the distance in layers, and at others standing as individual cones against the blue sky.

The guidebook has been giving us warnings that if it rains, there are some sections of the trail that might be impassable. The weather has been dry so far, and it has been difficult to imagine flooding in most areas, but today we crossed several small streams and marshy areas where the trail was little more than a few wooden pallets laid over a wet, boggy quagmire.  If a lot of rain fell, any pilgrims passing through would certainly have wet feet!

Olive Groves and Vineyards

The countryside was mostly quiet, and we were interested in spotting another large statue of a bull sitting on a hill near the highway, reminding us both of the Rioja wine region on the Camino Frances and the area around Frontera de la Jerez along the Via Augusta.  As the day progressed, the grain fields gave way to olive groves and vineyards.  There were quite a few farmers out ploughing the earth between the vines and driving down the Camino on their tractors.  Many gave us a cheerful wave as they passed.  Strangely, the newly tilled earth didn't give off a strong scent, but it was a bright golden red that lent colour to the landscape.

At one point, we crossed a relatively quiet paved road, and a few hundred meters later, we came to a small rest area for pilgrims and walkers.  The roofed structure provided shelter from the sun and rain, and the stone walls were a lovely place to sit.  We gratefully took a break, eating some of the cookies from the bakery this morning and enjoying the view of rolling hills and peaceful green countryside.  We also noticed a Black Kite circling overhead, one of the many that have been keeping us company throughout the morning. We were also entertained by a Crested Lark that was foraging for insects to feed its young just outside the shelter.

Walking into Zafra 

Towards the end of the stage, as we approached the outskirts of Zafra, the landscape took on a very organized, almost geometric character. Rows of evenly spaced olive trees marched up and down the hills, while young grapevines formed neat dots against the reddish soil. We passed through Puebla de Sancho Pérez and visited the church there, but, like so many others, it was closed.

A short walk along an exposed gravel track brought us into Zafra, an important communications center historically situated on the border between two kingdoms. Today, it is recognized as a place of artistic and historic significance, its name thought to derive from the Arabic word “Safra.”

When we arrived in Plaza Grande in Zafra, the square was alive with people, and the tables from the cafes and restaurants that lined its edges were already crowded.  Outside one of the busy cafes were Marcelle, Coreen, and Rich, three pilgrims we've been walking with since beginning the Via de la Plata, and they waved us over to join them for a drink.  As we sat there, an Italian pilgrim we've seen several times came by to chat, as well as a few others, and soon an impromptu pilgrim gathering took shape.

Logistics and Realities 

Inevitably, among the topics of conversation were everyone's plans for the coming days and stages on the Camino.  Maria, an athletic Italian lady, only has 26 days to reach Santiago, so she will walk to Merida in two days, leaving most of us behind.  From there, she has a rigorous schedule planned, often combining three 'regular' stages into two.  She did not deny that part of her plan in increasing the distances she wanted to cover each day was to hopefully get beyond the crowds and past the race for the bunks that we are currently caught in.  

Amid this conversation, the young British gentleman that we have come to know walked into the historic square and said his goodbyes.  He, too, is tired of the race for the beds and has decided to head off for a quieter Camino route.  He is considering either the Camino de Madrid, which we heartily advocated for, or the Ruta de Lana, much further to the east.  After enjoying a pint with us, he wished us all well and headed off in his own direction. 

Four other Italian pilgrims we began with are finishing their walk here and are planning to return next year to continue on from Zafra. Others have been injured or are unable to continue and so have decided to conclude their pilgrimages.

We have already walked ahead of around half the pilgrims we set out from Seville with.  Although they may rejoin us in Merida when we take a rest day. In the coming days, there are very few places to stay, which will probably further separate us.  It is clear that the original group we began with has been shattered, but as always on the Camino, it is possible that we may all meet again. 

Exploring Zafra

Zafra is an undeniably beautiful town, and the Refugio de Peregrinos albergue is lovely, but tonight was also frustratingly full. We were gently turned away and had to find alternative accommodations, which meant a slightly panicked scramble for us to find lodgings as well as higher costs in this town.  The result was that we sat down at a patio bar to regroup and search for local hotels within our budget.

Eventually, we were able to find and check into a local hotel, where we enjoyed long, warm showers before heading back out to explore Zafra.  Our first stop was the Museum of Santa Clara.  It is located in a beautiful convent that is still home to a shrinking group of cloistered nuns.  They have a small shop on the side that sells baked goods, but it was unattended when we visited, and we were too shy to ring the bell to summon a nun from whatever more important duties she might have been performing.

Admission to the museum was free, so we stepped inside.  I'm not sure what I was expecting from a museum for the Franciscan Order, but I didn't expect to see reliquaries, elaborate gold and silver statues, huge paintings, and a selection of treasures typical of the Spanish Church.  My understanding was that the Poor Clares had taken a vow of poverty, giving to the poor rather than accumulating wealth to glorify God, but I admit I don't know much about religion.  In any case, the museum featured the types of treasures often on display in Cathedral museums across Spain, which, for me, was unexpected.

As we wandered the old stone building, we were able to tour several small chapels and also look through glass doors into a gorgeous courtyard filled with plants.  We could see some of the sisters moving around inside, and many were very elderly. 

I'm sure that opening the convent to tourists and pilgrims was done out of economic necessity, but being there seemed a little intrusive, and a pair of American tourists that were unabashedly taking photos through an iron grid of two nuns praying did little to dispel the feeling that we were peering into a cage like in a zoo.

Book Stores and Restful Evenings

After visiting the museum, we walked to the large stone castle at the edge of town, which was previously the Alcazar Palace of the Dukes of Feria.  It is now a Parador Hotel, and while it is possible to look around the inside, I think this has to be done on a guided tour.  There was a large crowd of tourists gathered around the entrance, so we decided against going inside for a closer look. 

Instead, we walked the streets for a bit, which were lined with beautiful buildings - their paint was fresh, their balconies planted with lush and interesting plants, and many had colourful tile details.  The main street was lined with small shops, and we even found a lovely-looking little bookshop, which we stepped inside to explore.  As usual, Sean bemoaned the fact that we were walking, making it impractical for him to fill his pack with books - something he has done on a number of long-distance hikes.

When we'd had our fill of exploring, we went to the Spar to get bread, cheese, tomatoes, and guacamole for dinner.  Returning to the historical quarter, we again sat down for a beer with a few familiar faces amid the group of pilgrims we have come to know since Seville. It was during this chat that we made an interesting discovery (that we will talk about more later on).  In general, however, the conversation again returned to logistics and what people’s stages were in the coming days.  As others began to order their evening meals, we said our goodbyes for the night. There are a lot of restaurants in Zafra, including in the Plaza Grande right outside the hotel, but I have a lot of writing to do and the costs here border on tourist prices. As such, we decided to have a quiet night and eat in our room. 

See you on the Way!