Beginning the Via de la Plata: Seville to Guillena

“You do not need to know precisely what is happening, or exactly where it is all going. What you need is to recognize the possibilities and challenges offered by the present moment, and to embrace them with courage, faith, and hope.”
Thomas Merton

Via de la Plata Stage 1

Morning in Seville Spain

The first day of our walk along the Via de la Plata began at 6:00 AM when the first car drove by outside our hotel window in Seville.  Soon afterward, the second car passed, and then a third, and soon someone began shouting at the top of their lungs below our window.  Attempting further sleep was clearly futile.

Regardless of the morning's disruptions, we had been grateful for a great night's sleep. Two days ago, we had completed our hike from Cadiz to Seville on the Via Augusta, Yesterday, we took the time to reooperate and explore the beautiful city of Seville.

Our bodies had welcomed the time to rest.

As the sky began to flow outside, we slowly packed our things up and set out.  We had decided to carry our backpacks back to the cathedral and set out from there rather than return to the hotel and pick them up.  

All set, we deposited our room key and stepped out in search of breakfast, which, to our delight, we quickly located an open café. Here we seated ourselves on the patio and ordered café con leche, zumo, and toast with jam.  While we were enjoying it, a group of four other pilgrims sat down at the table beside us.  The four older men spoke fluent Spanish and were clearly very excited to begin their Camino. 

A little stunned, we watched as an additional six pilgrims walked past, their steps full of purpose and their walking poles swinging energetically.  Soon after, almost a dozen more pilgrims trekked past ...now we were utterly shocked.  We had expected the Via de la Plata to be a quiet route, where we might meet a handful of other pilgrims on the way to Santiago, but by the time we had finished our breakfast, we had watched over 20 pilgrims hurry past.  Clearly, this Camino will be anything near as isolated as the guidebooks and online forums indicated

With the sun rising above, our breakfast done, and strong coffee inside of us, we made our way back to the Seville Cathedral, a task made easier by our exploration of Seville yesterday. 

Beginning the Via de la Plata

Standing outside the Catedral de Sevilla, we found the official starting point and the Km 0 marker. Here, at the symbolic beginning (and the ending of the Via Augusta), we paused to take a selfie.

The cathedral itself rose before us like a fortress of faith, its improbable spires straining heavenward. On its outer wall, we stopped to photograph the statue of Santiago, a fitting companion at the outset of our journey. Just across the street, the first tiled shell and yellow arrow pointed the way. With that simple sign, and with little fanfare, we turned our steps forward and began our pilgrimage.

We then followed the familiar yellow arrows through the winding streets of Seville and over the bridge to Triana.  The Barrio of Trianna looked like a really cool neighbourhood, full of restaurants, cafés, bars, and interesting-looking shops.  It seemed much quieter than Seville itself and was worthy of exploration on its own. If we ever find ourselves in this beautiful city again, we will definitely take some time to check out this side of the river.

Walking out of Seville

We usually miss the trail markers when entering or exiting large cities, but we were surprised and pleased to find that the signs were so obvious along this route that we had no difficulty.  We easily followed the arrows to the edge of town, and then crossed a bridge over the Guadalquivir River on a cycling route.

People were out riding scooters and bicycles to work, as well as jogging and walking along the path, and for a few short minutes, we felt like we were locals.  It was a busy commute during rush hour, but we were met with many smiles as we walked out of the city, crossing roundabouts and highways. 

After crossing the bridge, we turned and picked up a track that followed the river.  Officially an Alternative route, this pathway is often taken by pilgrims opting to avoid walking through the industrial suburbs of Camas.  As the guidebook warned, the beginning was a bit rough, being covered in a sprawling mass of garbage.  However, we were soon following a hard-packed gravel track beside a peaceful waterway bordered by blooming purple thistles and other wildflowers. The sun was casting long shadows, and behind us, we could still see the outline of the Cathedral in Seville. 

At one point, we passed two beautiful horses grazing among the wildflowers, and the sounds of loud and enthusiastic bird song filled the air. We were following in the footsteps of the four pilgrims we had shared breakfast with, and we initially took quite a few breaks in order to stay a respectable distance behind them.

During our pauses, we managed to spot a Common Nightingale in the dense shrubs bordering the trail, as well as several cryptic brown Corn Buntings, a colourful black and white Eurasian Magpie, and a bright and cheerful European Greenfinch moving about in the grasses. 

Trekking along a wide gravel trail, we turned away from the waterway and began crossing more open farmland. We eventually overtook the group of pilgrims ahead of us, exchanging smiles and 'buen caminos' as we passed.

Santiponce

The Camino took us under a bridge for the highway, through a rather busy roundabout, and then, before we knew it, we were making our way into Santiponce.  We were rather excited to arrive in this suburb of Seville for two reasons.  The first was the Monasterio of San Isidoro del Campo, and the second was the archeological site of Itálica.  The weather forecast suggested it was going to be a very hot afternoon (30°C), which made us a little nervous about spending too much time exploring the town and then having to walk in the afternoon heat, but we wanted to visit these historic sites nonetheless.

After momentarily following the wrong set of arrows (we are still not sure why there were two sets at the edge of town), we followed the arrows through the center of what looked like a small, quiet and rather charming community.  A series of signs directed us to a quiet laneway bordered by tall coniferous hedges, beyond which was the entrance to the Monasterio.  The courtyard outside was filled by a large group of students who seemed to be receiving an art lesson from a monk dressed in long brown robes.  At first, we weren't sure if we would be allowed to enter, but the teacher kindly ushered us inside with a smile. We felt lucky to find the building open and to be allowed to visit.

Monasterio de San Isidoro

The Monasterio de San Isidoro del Campo in Santiponce, a Cistercian monastery founded in 1301 by Guzmán el Bueno and María Alonso Coronel. Built over the site of an early Christian hermitage associated with Saint Isidoro, the monastery became a key spiritual and cultural center in Andalusia.

Its architecture blends Mudejar, Gothic, and Renaissance styles, and within its cloisters are remarkable frescoes, including vivid scenes of Saint Jerome. In the 16th century, it even became a refuge for reformist monks who produced the first Spanish translation of the Bible before persecution by the Inquisition forced them into exile.

Inside, the monastery had many of the very ornate golden altars that are seen in larger churches and Cathedrals across Spain, as well as elaborate wooden carvings, paintings, and statuaries.  As is typical, one of my favourite parts of the large, cool sanctuary was the cloister, which had a very peaceful feeling, and which was unlike others we've seen in Spain or Portugal on either the Camino Francis or Camino Portuguese. The Muslim influences in the artwork, the tile work, and the shapes of the arches gave the space a very calming feel.

We have visited a few monasteries and cloisters in our time, but the Mujedar influences and tile work of the cloister in this space were truly beautiful.  The courtyard had keyhole arches, rounded doorways, and beautiful blue, green, brown, and white tile work.  In some places, the remains of colourful frescos, now faded and crumbling, were still visible. 

It was clear that some of them were being actively restored, with the geometric patterns underlying the designs being transcribed onto the stucco, following the traditions of old.  I am very glad that the skills to do this work are still being kept alive in our modern society.

The visit to the monastery was free, and it was absolutely amazing as a place layered with history, art, and faith, offering a moment of awe and reflection so early in the pilgrimage.

Roman Ruins of Itálica

After visiting the monastery, we walked through town, surprised and a little disappointed to see that all the cafés and restaurants were still closed, even though it was just after 10 AM by this point.  We followed the signs to the remains of a Roman amphitheatre that once hosted public shows and gladiatorial fights, which were free for the public to watch. 

Entering, we had followed the arrows to a viewpoint overlooking the theatre, but from our vantage point at the top, the arena looked a little bit lost in the buildings and landscapes of modernity. Photos taken from the bottom of the arena make it look like a truly impressive structure.

After looking at the Roman theatre, we continued on through the town, following sidewalks and then walking the shoulder of a busy road to the edge of the community. Along the way, we passed another school group, and when we approached the Archaeologico Itálica at the edge of town, the streets were full of parked cars. Clearly, this was a busy tourist attraction.

Roman Amphitheatre

We joined the line to enter the site, standing behind the same group of four pilgrims whom we'd had breakfast with.  The entrance was 3 Euros for both of us, and we were thrilled to receive a stamp for our passports. Once inside, we found the grounds to be very full, with two very lively groups of school children, as well as several guided tours of adults making their way through the ruins inside. 

We walked up the outside of the amphitheatre first, looking down into the arena below.  Next, we explored some of the tunnels that ran around the outside of the site, beneath the seats.  We were amazed to find that even though the temperatures had risen into the high twenties by then, the corridors the Romans built under the stands were cool, shady, lit, and had a breeze flowing through them that was all their own.  We could happily have stayed in there all afternoon! 

Instead, we continued on into the middle of the forum, looking up from the perspective of the gladiators and the animals they fought.  It was a humbling experience.

We paused, briefly, to take in the immense theatre - one of the largest in the Roman Empire, capable of seating more than 20,000 spectators.

By this point, the temperature had risen to what, for us, was an uncomfortable level. Amazingly, many of the people on the guided tours around us were still bundled in sweaters and even down jackets, while we were beginning to overheat.

The site was certainly worth the stop, but whether it was the crush of the crowds or simply the excitement of setting out on the Via de la Plata, we didn’t linger long before continuing on our way.

Rejoining the Camino

As we left Santiponce behind, the weather was shifting, the morning coolness slowly giving way to a steady warmth. Our path led us past a gas station and then out onto the edge of a narrow, busy highway. For nearly three kilometres, we walked along the roadside, the traffic rushing past in sharp contrast to the quiet cloisters and ancient stones we had just left behind.

From Santiponce to Guillena, the walk is a more or less straight gravel track across agricultural fields.  We crossed a highway at a busy roundabout, and were very grateful when one of the drivers stopped to let us cross.  It was a bit of a scary prospect weaving through the on/off ramps and roundabouts of the freeway, but we eventually found our way onto the gravel track and began heading towards Guillena.

It was hot, and the track extended out in a blinding white ribbon in front of us.  It was bordered by lush and overflowing mounds of blooming wildflowers, beyond which were fields of wheat, bare earth, and small row crops.

We began on our own, with the other pilgrims in our cohort either ahead of or behind us. Eventually, we caught up to another pilgrim who did her level best to stay ahead.  Our natural pace was slightly faster than hers, and she looked as if she was struggling with her pack, her footwear, and her poles – yet remained determined not to be passed.   

Every time we approached, willing to provide a few words of encouragement or simply a 'Buen Camino,' she would speed up and even jog to keep ahead.  As a result, we spent about an hour trying not to freak her out or make her feel she needed to hurry, while at the same time hoping to keep moving forward in the rising afternoon temperatures. Finally, she decided to take a break, and with a 'Buen Camino, ' we parted ways.

By now the heat was pounding down, and we were relieved to find a lone pair of willow trees beside a small pond. Grateful for their shade, we stopped to rest and watch the life around the water. A Grey Heron stood motionless at the edge, while three European White Storks and a handful of Glossy Ibis foraged in the shallows. Overhead, a Eurasian Magpie scolded noisily, Mallards dabbled nearby, and the air was alive with swarms of swallows and House Martins skimming the surface in constant motion.

We photographed for a while, savouring the moment, but soon the temperature pressed us onward, pushing us back into the shimmering heat. I even resorted to walking for several hours beneath my UV sun umbrella, though in truth it felt like it was the breeze - surely the blessing of St. Roch - that carried us forward today.

Guillena Spain

Eventually, we pushed on, struggling to keep our pace in the heavy afternoon heat. The historic sites we had visited earlier were unforgettable, but they had come at a price. The air seemed to ripple and shimmer around us as we approached the cluster of whitewashed buildings that marked Guillena, and by the time we reached the albergue, we were truly overheated, teetering on the edge of dizziness.

A welcoming sign with the scallop shell greeted us at the town’s edge, a small encouragement after such a difficult approach. Inside, we joined the line of weary pilgrims waiting to check in to the already crowded albergue. Thankfully, just beside the entrance was a fridge stocked with ice-cold bottles of Aquarius. We gratefully bought two, and the first long, sweet sip was nothing short of wondrous. 

Chaos, Confusion and High Costs

By 3 PM, we had reached the Luz del Camino Via de la Plata Albergue, and to say that check-in was rough and chaotic would be an understatement. Unfortunately, there was a bit of an issue when we went to pay, which added an extra layer of stress to an already exhausting day. After the heat and the long road in, it felt harder to navigate than it might have otherwise.

Checking in the Hospitalera originally told us it was 15 Euros each, meaning 30 Euros for both of us, so I gave her 40 Euros and got change of 10 Euros to pay for both of us.   With the transaction complete, the host put the money in her lockbox as a Spanish man marched in, slammed his backpack down and began screaming that we had to hurry up and pay as he wanted to get to his bunk.  

The host took a moment to respond to the intervening pilgrim and his multitude of questions, after which she looked back up at us and asked for 15 Euros each, per person, per bunk, per night.  To this, I sought to explain in my limited Spanish that we had already paid. Regardless of what I said, she kept pointing at me, insisting that we had not paid.  Amid this, the Spanish man kept getting more and more upset and increasingly dramatic about the delay. 

So I paid again, and she again took our information and re-recorded it down, writing the exact same information below where she had already noted it down a few minutes ago.   I again handed her 40 Euros to cover the 30 Euro bill, and again she placed the money into her lockbox and again gave us 10 Euros change.  

Hoping everything was now taken care of, she next looked up from her ledger at Sean and asked how many people he was staying with – seemingly not having understood that we were together, that I had now paid twice for both of us, and that she had already recorded his information.  

 

As such, she repeated the check-in and cost instructions.  Sean was again old that it was 15 Euros each, per person, per bunk, per night and that she needed our information.  Furious at this point, Sean took out a 50 Euro bill from his backpack, which was the smallest denomination that he had on him, and handed it to her.  She quickly jammed the bill into her lockbox, and this time did NOT offer us the 20 Euros change that we should have been owed.  Afterward, she again demanded our ID, and so for the third time I handed her our passports, which she took.  

Seemingly confused by me handing our documents back to her, she again prepared to write down our information. She clearly realized what she had done and immediately handed our ID back, snapped at us that we had to wait that she checked the next pilgrim in before showing us our bunks.  Despite realizing that she had charged us multiple times, we were not offered an apology or any of our funds back. Instead, she jumped up and put her lockbox into a locker, which she sealed.  

In the end, this meant that we had paid over 100 Euros for 2 bunks for 1 night in the albergue.   

This entire situation seemed both a little odd and very chaotic. Sean was absolutely convinced it was a con and was mad about the situation.  I tend to take a less cynical view, preferring to think of it as a misunderstanding on the part of a clearly overwhelmed and slightly chaotic hostess, but it was a bit frustrating nonetheless and stands out as our most expensive night in any Camino albergue to date. 

Albergue Overflow

Given what had just happened, it was clear the hostess was nervous, aware that in the chaos she had created a problem. Rather than giving us bunks, she announced that it would be better for us to move to the overflow, which meant yet another wait. For over thirty minutes, we sat with our packs on a couch in the stifling heat, watching other pilgrims get checked in, assigned bunks, and be able to take showers while we remained in limbo. If it weren’t for the fact that these bunks had already cost so much, I think we might have taken a taxi straight back to Seville just to be done with this town.

It became obvious that she was intent on filling the main albergue first and wanted us out of the way.   Eventually, the Hospitalera could delay no further and walked us down to the overflow albergue.  Even she declared it was extremely hot out by this point, although for some reason she didn't choose to walk on the shaded side of the street, but rather in the full sun.  This was extremely hard for Sean to stand, and he followed behind on the other side of the road, staying in the shade and trying not to feel sick.  

The walk was exhausting, but at least it marked the end of the check-in ordeal.  We were delivered to the municipal overflow beside the public pool and tennis courts at the hottest time of the day, the metal door burnt to the touch.  Here, the hostess unlocked the front door and walked away....no explanations or information on how to proceed.  

We stepped in and chose two bunks, relieved to find that, for tonight at least, we would be alone - though four pilgrims travelling together occupied the room next door. Thankfully, the water was deliciously ice-cold, and we took long showers while also washing our clothes. The sun and heat worked in our favour, and our hand-washed garments baked dry outside in just a few minutes.

Evening in Guillena

Feeling somewhat discouraged by our experiences in this town and albergue, we walked to San Francisco's bar, where we sat with a couple of cold drinks and worked on our travel journals.  We were soon joined by a couple who came from Calgary but are now living in New Zealand, a lovely lady from Surrey, in the UK, and a very nice lady who speaks Italian, Spanish, and English. We had a lovely conversation while they had dinner.  Sean was feeling too hot to eat, and although I asked for and paid for the pasta, I never received it.  It seems to be just one of those days. 

Pilgrim Numbers

We end the day with very mixed feelings.  On this first day, eating was clearly not an option.  Along with others we spoke to, we were also shocked by the number of pilgrims on the trail - there are clearly around 40 or 50 pilgrims in this cohort.  We did not personally have a great experience in this town, and we do not have a place booked for tomorrow.  We are hoping to stay in the donativo albergue, but with this crowd, we are wondering if it will be 'completo' by the time we arrive.

With all of that said, it is good to be on the Camino, and it was wonderful to meet the other pilgrims tonight.

Maybe we just have to trust in The Way, a lesson we have always struggled with.

See you on the Way!