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Camino Decisions: Riego del Camino to Granja de Moreruela

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  “Should I stay or should I go now? If I go there will be trouble And if I stay it will be double So come on and let me know Should I stay or should I go now?”                                              The Clash Via de la Plata Stage 25 Decisions on the Way  Despite the fact that the albergue was very comfortable and that we were the only ones in the house, neither of us really slept last night as we wondered what to do. Today was decision day - do we keep walking north towards Astorga, and 'finish' the official Via de la Plata route, or do we turn west at Granja de Moreruela and follow the Camino Sanabrés for another 350 (or so) kilometres to Santiago de Compostela ? After contending with few services and long stages on the Via Augusta and Via de la Plata for the past five weeks, it was tempting to head north for a change of pace.  H...

Frustrations and Faith on Camino: Zamora to Riego del Camino

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  “It is the hope that kills you...” Sir Peter Ustinov Via de la Plata Stage 24 Continuing Our Camino Pilgrimage It was another very quiet night at the hostel, without even the voices of swallows or pigeons to break the silence.  Reluctantly, we got up around 6:00 AM and made our breakfast of instant coffee and chocolate croissants.  By 6:45 AM, we were packed and heading out onto the streets. Having enjoyed a couple of days off in the last week, it was definitely time to get going again. The sky was just beginning to lighten as we set out, and once again the city lay under that almost eerie, hushed quiet that had become so familiar on these early mornings. As we walked, a sign caught our eye: the Camino Zamorano Portugués. We’d never heard of it, and it wasn’t in our guidebook. A quick online search revealed it was a little-known variant that leaves Zamora and takes pilgrims straight to the Camino Sanabrés via Bragança in Portugal, eventually reconnecting a few stages l...